My Classic has just about impossible to load on its trailer smoothly. At every tournament I felt like such a dork having to take extra time to get the boat
front tiedown to snug to the trailer bow roller correctly. The top rubber roller would dig into the underside of the bow so much that it was wearing out the
gelcoat, and then leave me about 5 inches short of the correct fit. If I put the tailer deeper in the water the darn post would get over the top of the bow
causing even more grief. I knew this front post of the trailer was made just too darn high. A good buddy had the tools to cut this post down an inch and drill
new holes in the fork of the post. We then custom cut the bottom roller enough to allow the installation of the top roller to load my Classic simply just
like it should. Smooth, easy, and no grinding down the gelcoat. Taking that front post down an inch was the solution. I wonder how many other Classic owners
are having this tailer post issue.
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some trailer help offered
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 zipstick |
some trailer help offered |
Lead | |
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Posts: 9 (11/21/07 04:20) |
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Dr Bear 19 |
Trailer problems for Pantera Classic | ||
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Posts: 22 (11/26/07 05:05) |
Thanks for posting a solution to loading your Classic on the trailer. I have experienced similar problems. The fix for the end caps on the top roller has
helped, however, it is still a struggle getting the boat snugged next to the roller without scarring the gel. What did you use to cut the metal fork to lower
the top roller. Can you post a picture of the modification you make to the fork and rollers.
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basscathash |
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Posts: 293 (11/26/07 05:51) |
I have a 05 Classic and don't have the problems you are discribing. I leave the trailer in the water to where the water is almost to the flat top part of
the fender ( tandem axel ). I run a Tempest prop and can push the boat on the trailer with ease. I have heard if you run a Trophy it is harder to load.
Brian Hash |
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ptankers |
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Posts: 2 (04/13/08 12:53) |
I have an 08 Classic on a tandem trailer. It is the worst loading trailer I have ever owned like it is. You cannot drive the boat snug against the roller stop.
Lowering the front post would solve the problem.
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basscat dave |
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Posts: 15 (04/13/08 07:54) |
The only time I've ever seen a Cat that was hard to load was in Mississippi where the ramps were extremely steep, or when the trailer was in the water to
far. My Classic (tandem) I usually back it fully into the water to wet the bunks down, pull up till the metal at the rear of the fenders is barely touching
and drive fully up onto the trailer.
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Fishspanker |
Classic Trailer | ||
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Posts: 1 (04/13/08 08:50) |
It is a fairly hard trailer to load in terms of getting the boat all the way up to the front eye or not having the roller above the bow. The key is that you
figure out how far to put the trailer in on each individual ramp. Steepness of each ramp requires that pick a spot on the fenders to back it into. This will
wary from ramp to ramp. If the ramp is steeper you tend to get the bow down so you do not need to back it in as far. On less steep ramps it tends to take a
tank to push it up to the eye so you need to back it in farther. Having owned a few boats in my life time I would say this one is the most critical on exactly
how far you back the trailer into the water.
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BassCatSam1 |
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Posts: 85 (04/13/08 08:55) |
I have a 2000 single axle trailer and had same issue. I switched out bow rollers and went with the clear Stolz brand to eliminate the scuffing. (Bass Pro
Shops) But you should back trailer up until water is at the top of fenders as stated below. Have not had a problem since. hope this helps
Sam |
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jignpig |
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Posts: 1222 (04/13/08 09:46) |
The trailers are some of the best out there as they cradle the boat. I have used 5 different BassCat trailers, 4 tandems and a single axle. As with driving
the boats, there is a learning curve to loading them onto the trailer. Tandems need to have a couple of inches of the front wheelwell fenders exposed. The
boat will usually seat onto the bunks and drive right up.
This will vary as has been stated in the past at lakes like Ross Barnett, where the angle of the ramp vs length of ramp causes an awkward angle. Gouges near the bow eye would seem to indicate backing in too far and hitting the roller or not "seating" on the trailer. Yes, there will be one point when the you do have to throttle after the boat is seated on the bunks, just feathering the throttle will get you there. Just my two cents. 
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bvg819 |
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Posts: 3 (04/13/08 10:07) |
It may be unique to the Classic, but I too had similar problems. I've put a lot of boats on trailers, and the Classic was by far the most demanding. On
my ramps, I usually put the outside bunks just below the surface of the water as a start point. If the trailer was any further back, the boat tended to drift
from side to side, and wouldn't sit on the bunks when I pulled it from the water. More often than not, I could drive the boat up within a few inches of
the bow roller. I had to exit the boat and stand on the tounge, while my partner backed the boat down a couple of feet SLOWLY while I cranked on the winch
strap (not the safest feeling.) Again, it may be unique to the Classic, because I now have a Sabre FTD and no longer have any problems...
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Rick from Lafayette |
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Posts: 55 (04/13/08 12:38) |
The key to loading the Classic is backing the trailer until the outer/smaller bunk boards are sticking 2 feet out of the water. Because all ramps have
different angles you can't tell another boater how much of the fender should be sticking out of the water because his ramp may be steeper or more shallow
than another's. This means that you have to lower your tailgate to see how much the smaller bunk is protruding out the water. If you have a suburban or
cover on your P/U bed then you need to get out and look or have the boater or someone else guide you.
I got this tip several years ago from this board and it has worked for me every time. I must mention that this is for the Classic. I can't comment on any other models. |
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jignpig |
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Posts: 1224 (04/13/08 03:36) |
As Rick said, the inner bunk boards will be noticeably out of the water by almost 1 1/2 to 2 feet. The outer bunk boards may be a couple of inches out(like 2-3
inches). Front part of the fender wells will be out of water. This will allow the seating of the boat. Different size trailers require trial and error.
The 5 trailers I have used....Single axle Sabre 18', dual axle Eyra 17'11", two Cougar FTD tandem trailers, and a cousin/son of the Classic, a 1997 Pantera II with tandem axle. It is a learning curve that each brand of boat will have.
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meP2too |
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Posts: 11 (04/15/08 10:17) |
I have a p2 and it's difficult also.
I have learned from other BCB owners to leave about 4 to 6 inches of the outer bunks dry. I drive it up to where the boat is resting on the bunks, get out of the seat, hook up the winch and crank it up until the the eye bolt is with in 6 inches of the roller, then finish with the motor. I do not care what other anglers say at the ramp, I have already paid out $600 repairing the damaged keel. BCB trailers might cradle the boat, but they do not direct the keel towards the bow stop. |
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basscatbat |
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Posts: 164 (04/16/08 09:30) |
After loading 3 different basscats hundreds of times, I have found a solution for me. First don't back as far into the water as you are used to. Load the
boat, and snug on the trailer with the motor, don't try to push to eye. Get out attach the winch strap and pull tight. Then back down a little more and
then winch to the eye. This might take a minute more but it works well and does not require gunning the motor so much. Try it.
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dbasketman |
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Posts: 2050 (04/16/08 09:53) |
I've found no need to modify a BCB trailer, just modify the depth of the trailer bunks on different ramps. As JNP said, there is a learning curve, and once
you've seen it work it is easy to duplicate. Good luck, D.
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basschaser |
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Posts: 2271 (04/16/08 09:57) |
meP2too wrote: You can either modify your existing rollers or buy one for $10 from BCB and will help from getting the nose between the two rollers. Here is the link:
http://www.basscatstore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=783&HS=1
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lreddmann |
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Posts: 123 (04/16/08 10:01) |
First bass boat i purchased was '07 classic about 4 months ago. I have not had any experience driving or loading any bass boats in the past. I
haven't had any issues loading boat on the trailer (w/ exception of a couple of weeks ago and it was my fault b/c ramp was too crowded and got me off my
line). As stated earlier, not any experience with any other boats, the guy showed me where the trailer needs to be in the water and easy as 1-2-3, and I am a
rookie. I haven't had it at too many different ramps, so the steepness of the ramp may throw me off. I was very pleased with how easy it was to load.
Not saying you guys are doing something wrong, just letting you know I haven't had any problems. Now that I think about it, the guy I boat it from took me
for a test drive on Ross Barnett Res and I am putting the trailer in the water the same as he showed me and everything has been cool. I have heard Ross
Barnett has steep ramps and that is where people are having some problems, but the guy I bought it from didn't mention he had any problems what so ever.
Not that he would have... he was trying to sell me the boat. |
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daniel r |
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Posts: 17 (04/16/08 10:14) |
I have had a Pantera II, a Puma, and a Sabre and the only time I have ever had a problem was when I had a Trophy prop on my Puma. That prop just would not let
the motor load up and push the boat on the trailer. I ended up putting a Tempest on and it would try to put the boat in the back of the truck. It was a huge
difference. Loading the boat with the Trophy prop was very aggravating because as mentioned above, you would have to get out, hook the strap to the boat, then
back the truck further down in the water. Plus all this was taking place on Ross Barnett Rez which doesn't have the best ramps in the world. I also now
take my spare tire off of my trailer and put it in the truck after popping two tires from the nose of the boat dropping down while my partner backed me in. I
think that issue is with the not-so-good boat ramps though.
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Tideman |
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Posts: 764 (04/16/08 11:08) |
OOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHWWWWWWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEE
ROSS BARNETT YUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK NUF SAID........ BY THE WAY I DO LOVE CATCHIN THOSE 14 " TO 14 1/2 FISH THERE.. SOMETIMES...... 
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jrdodd |
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Posts: 52 (04/16/08 02:32) |
I have to agree. My classic is the hardest boat i have ever had to load. Getting on the trailer is smooth. Just snugging it up to the bow roller is difficult and this is not the first boat I have owned. The trailer has to be in the water at the abosolute perfect depth in order for the boat to snug up. That being said, I still love the boat and would not own any other brand. |
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basscatsmeow |
PIV Drivers | ||
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Posts: 35 (04/18/08 08:29) |
How about the PIV drivers?? What are your water line - levels, on the fenders or boards, to ease in loading at the average ramp?
Thanks, |
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dbasketman |
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Posts: 2057 (04/18/08 08:57) |
Depending on the ramp, but about two inches over the front of the fender step, give or take. Even better, go by the clearance light on the front of the fender,
and put it under about the same, and try it. Works well for me, although with the Trophy you may still need to winch a little, but no problem, D.
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